Materials & craft

What goes inside the cabinet, why it's chosen, and how to look after it.

Touch it before you choose it.

Choose a material to see what it is and where it works. Look closer to move across the surface — grain, weave, edge and finish.

Two oiled oak boards in raking daylight, their grain running along the length

Solid timber is warm to the touch and can be sanded and refinished. It moves a little with the seasons, so joints are designed to allow for it.

Where it works

Tables, shelves, frames and edges that are handled every day.

Inside the work

Close-ups from finished projects: edges, joints, drawers and hardware.

Breakfast shelf — oiled oak
Sink — brushed brass tap, stone worktop
Handle — brushed brass bar
Deep drawers — oak veneer, brass pulls

Finishes compared

The surfaces you see and touch every day, side by side: where each one is at its best, and what to watch for.

Laminate

Best for: Hard-working shutters, interiors and commercial counters.
Watch for: Edges show a line; wood prints don't age like real timber.

Matte lacquer

Best for: Kitchen and wardrobe shutters where a calm, solid colour is wanted.
Watch for: Chips can happen on sharp knocks and need a careful touch-up; pale colours show marks.

Oak veneer

Best for: Wardrobe fronts, shelving and panelling where real wood grain is wanted.
Watch for: Colour varies naturally between leaves; deep scratches are harder to repair than on solid wood.

Material library

Boards & cores

Concept render: boards seen edge-on, showing the layers of the core beneath the veneer — Board edges — the layers that give it strength

Boiling-water-resistant plywood

What it is: Plywood made from thin wood layers bonded with a water-resistant adhesive, often called BWP or marine-grade. It is the box behind the door — the part you rarely see.
Where we use it: Kitchen base units, bathroom vanities and anywhere near water.
Why: It holds screws well, resists swelling from spills and steam, and keeps its shape over years.
Trade-offs: Heavier and costlier than particle board; edges need banding or veneer to look finished.
Care: Wipe spills from edges promptly; keep sink cupboards ventilated.

Shutters

Laminate

What it is: A printed or solid-colour sheet pressed onto board under heat and pressure.
Where we use it: Hard-working shutters, interiors and commercial counters.
Why: Tough, easy to clean and available in many colours and wood looks.
Trade-offs: Edges show a line; wood prints don't age like real timber.
Care: Any mild cleaner; avoid hot pans directly on the surface.

Concept render: close-up of oak, its straight grain in raking light — Oak — straight grain

Oak veneer

What it is: Thin leaves of real oak laid onto a stable board, often matched so the grain runs across doors.
Where we use it: Wardrobe fronts, shelving and panelling where real wood grain is wanted.
Why: Real timber character without the movement and weight of solid wood panels.
Trade-offs: Colour varies naturally between leaves; deep scratches are harder to repair than on solid wood.
Care: Dust and wipe with a barely damp cloth; keep out of long direct sun to limit colour change.

Finishes

Matte lacquer

What it is: A sprayed paint finish on board, built up in layers and sanded between coats.
Where we use it: Kitchen and wardrobe shutters where a calm, solid colour is wanted.
Why: Any colour is possible, and a matte surface hides fingerprints better than gloss.
Trade-offs: Chips can happen on sharp knocks and need a careful touch-up; pale colours show marks.
Care: Soft cloth and mild soap; no abrasive pads.

Hardware

Illustration of a concealed cup hinge and mounting plate inside a door — Concealed hinge

Soft-close hinges

What it is: Concealed cup hinges with a damper that slows the door for the last few centimetres.
Where we use it: Every hinged door in kitchens and wardrobes.
Why: Doors close quietly and stay aligned; adjustment screws let doors be re-levelled over time.
Trade-offs: Quality varies widely; cheaper dampers weaken over time.
Care: Re-adjust if a door drops; keep hinges free of grit.

Edges

Illustration of a lacquered door corner with a matching band on its edge — Door corner — banded edge

Edge banding

What it is: A thin strip applied to the exposed edges of boards, matched to the face finish.
Where we use it: Every visible edge of shelves, carcasses and doors.
Why: It seals the board against moisture and knocks, and makes a cut panel look solid.
Trade-offs: Thin bands can lift if applied poorly; thicker bands are more durable but visible as a line.
Care: Avoid prolonged water on edges; wipe dry.

Surfaces & counters

Concept render: a honed stone sample with an eased edge, resting on a pale worktop — Honed stone — eased edge

Stone worktops

What it is: Natural or engineered stone slabs, cut and finished on site templates.
Where we use it: Kitchen worktops, splashes and vanity tops.
Why: Heat- and wear-resistant, with a weight and presence that board can't match.
Trade-offs: Some natural stones stain or etch; engineered stone is more uniform but less varied.
Care: Wipe acids and oils promptly; reseal natural stone as advised for the type.

Glass

Fluted glass

What it is: Glass with vertical ribs that blur what's behind it while letting light through.
Where we use it: Cabinet doors, partitions and shower screens.
Why: Privacy and softness without losing light.
Trade-offs: Ribs collect dust and need a little more cleaning than flat glass.
Care: Soft brush along the ribs, then a glass cleaner.

Built for monsoon humidity, dust and dry heat

Humidity in the monsoon, dust, and dry heat all affect boards, finishes and hardware. We explain which materials suit which rooms, and why.

Visit the workshop page

Tell us about your space

Any size of project is welcome. You'll speak to a person, not a sales script.

What happens next

We call you back to understand the space and what you need
We visit to measure and talk through ideas
You receive a first layout and a clear next step

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